Fiesta SI, M reg: gearbox removal guide
Written by Paul Drage. All images and words © Paul Drage 2005.

Pre-guide notes:

While you read this the images should be loading like clockwork.

This guide assumes the following:
You have some common sense about you.
Have access to the following tool list, and have an extra pair of hands.

Please put the car into ___ gear, it will help when refitting the gearbox and linkages. - If the syncromesh on a particular gear is gone and you are stuck in whatever gear, then you will need to remember which gear it is stuck in.

Time required:
4 Hours (providing everything goes smoothly) - Allow a weekend for removal and refitting.

Tooling required:
- Axle stands (make sure they go high enough).
- 2 x hydraulic jacks.
- 8mm socket, 10mm socket, 13mm socket, 17mm socket, 18mm socket, 19mm socket, 32mm socket.
- Ratchets in quater drive, 3"8, and 1"2 inch.
- 13mm spanner, 16mm spanner, 17mm spanner, 18mm spanner, 19mm spanner.
- Pry bars, Short, and long.
- Copper hammer, normal hammer.
- Chunky Chisel.
- WD40.
- Grips, large, and small.
- Wheel removal tools (locking wheel nut key etc).
- Breaker bar (long!).
- Sand / oil absorbant granuals.

That should be your minimum tools needed.

Please also note, any work carried out on your vehicle is your own responsibility and i carry no guarantee to the accuracy of this guide (no matter how good it is), please note this guide may miss minor details out, and as such you need to make sure you use this as information only, and understand this is written from my experience only.

If you have any doubts about the work you are doing, dont be afraid to ask for help, its not defeat.

Finally: Keep everything neat and military precise, store bolts pushed into bits of cardboard all labelled up so you know exactly where they came from.

Onward with the guide.


Step1.
Begin by jacking the vehicle correctly.
Use axle stands to hold the vehicle as high as they will let you to allow lots of room for working underneath the vehicle.
Note bumper does not need to be removed.

Step2.
Open bonnet.
Remove your air filter top box. its clipped down with easy clips all the way around, just pop them off.
Remove the lower half: theres one 10mm bolt, and i think it slots in somewhere - you will have to work that out yourselves.
Also disconnect the wiring multiplug for the MAF (air flow sensor)

Disconnect your battery from the negative lead:
Note: make sure the wiring does not come into contact with the battery negative terminal at any time, or you'll have a shock!


Step3:
Unbolt this earth strap on the gearbox side of things - I think its a shortish 13mm bolt. Let the strap dangle about.
Note: picture shows chassis side of earth strap not gearbox side - sorry.

Step4.
Use some small grips / pliars to remove the clutch cable from the clutch arm/lever:
Note, you need to pull on the inner cable toward yourself (front of car) and pull up and out, it should be quite easy to come free.
You can then push it out of the mounting hole.

Step5.
Open your eyes and look out for any wiring coming off the gearbox. You will need to disconnect various multiblocks, i think I found 2 or three, see image:
Note: This connector is at the top back of the engine bay on the right hand side.. disconnect it and feed it back down to sit on top of the gearbox (so as it is clear).

Step6.
Remove speedo cable from the bottom back left hand side of gearbox.
You can reach down through the wires and pipes (see pic above) to get at it quite easily, use a xmm spanner? and undo the nut.. you can then withdraw the cable from the gearbox and let it dangle free.
Image to come.

Step7.
One more connector down the bottom front side of the gearbox on the left hand side of it?
Image to come.

Step8.
Time to get your hands dirty!
The vehicle should be jacked already with handbrake on and front wheels removed, if not, do it now.

Get out a 32mm socket (i think?) and a small extension (half inch please), with a large breaker bar / air~windy gun
Use a pry bar jammed in the brake disc to stop it turning, and/or get a mate to put his foot on the brakes hard.
I am told / have read in the haynes manual you need to "peen" back the metal around the front of the nut as it is securing it, do what you will with that info.
Undo the hub nut in the center of the brake disc (see images below.). remove the hub nut and keep it safe with the washer.

Get your 17mm spanner out / deep socket.
Remove the steering rack end / track rod end from the hub, this is a nut underneath the track rod end - I am led to believe it has a locking pin through it or some such?
Get your 17mm deep socket / normal socket on a ratchet with an extension if you like, and put it onto the antiroll bar drop link nut (see images), put the 17mm spanner on the round nut with two flats behind the nut (you will see what i mean).
Undo the bolt while holding the round nut behind it still, with your spanner. This is usually quite painful and might need some wd40.

Undo the nut that is holding the flexible brake hose to the strut, remove the bracket from the strut and put the nut back onto the threaded bar (on the bracket) - so you dont loose it.

You should now have free movement of the hub (i.e left to right).

Remove the bolt that goes through the back of the strut/shock absorber, you may aswell undo it all the way.
Use a pry bar now, to try and prise open the hub where it holds the shock absorber/strut. It will be tight and old so dont worry too much about this.
Use your copper hammer, and smack the hell out of the hub in a downward direction, after a while you should see movement and eventually you will of removed the hub from the shock absorber.


Step9.
Repeat Step8 for both sides.

Step10.
Use your copper hammer once more, and smack the end of the driveshaft out of the hub/disc.
You will need to use a lot of hitting power, alternatively you can buy a driveshaft tool that you wind in and it will push it out for you.
If the driveshaft is siezed in, I am informed you can spray a little brake fluid into the end of where it seats in the hub and that acts as a lubricant.

Please make sure you dont stress the bottom arm balljoints, and the driveshaft isnt supposed to be angled more than 20 degrees in any direction - I am informed.
So place a suitable stand under the bottom arm to stop it dangling down and damaging itself.

Step11.
Use your pry bars and pop the driveshafts out of the gearbox (dont damage the casings as its soft metal). I dont know why so dont ask.
This sounds easy, it wasnt for me, We removed the o/s driveshaft with a bit of a struggle, but the n/s wouldn't come out, I didn't mess about and just left it in when I dropped the gearbox out, it wasn't ideal but it's do-able.
Be prepared for oil loss again - use granuals and so on to clear the mess up.
As I didn't remove both shafts I didnt need to, but I'm also informed if you do, you need to push a broom handle into the differential when you take one shaft out, then take the other out, this is to stop all the planet gears inside falling apart.

Step12.
Time to do some big bolts and more part removing.
Get under the vehicle and remove the 18mm? bolts x4 that hold the horseshoe front subframe in place, remove the subframe / support and then put the bolts back into the threaded holes in the cars chassis. Please see image for this one as my naming of parts can be a little vague at times.

need image.

Step13.
From underneath again, undo the 16mm nut holding the gearbox to the gearbox mount at the back of the long mount.
Now undo the front nut securing the gearbox to the gearbox mount. (Just under the towing eye - see image).
Now loosen the remaining 4 bolts holding this mount to the chassis, 2 at the front, 2 at the rear.
The mount SHOULD now come away from the gearbox, but be prepared as the gearbox will want to fall down, so you will need your first jack to hold the gearbox up.
I used two big concrete blocks with a hydraulic jack on top to get the height.

Step14.
You need to remove the starter motor aswell, so to do this you must remove the wiring first, I think it was 10mm nuts on this starter motor.
Remove the three nuts that hold a plate to the starter motor/gearbox.
Remove the bolts from the otherside (13mm ones), I couldn't get access so removed a right angled part of the gearbox mount (I believe).

need image.

Step15.
Remove your gearlinkages:
Inside the vehicle (being careful not to shake the car off the axle stands):
Remove your gear-gaitor, don't snap anything off, be gentle.
There are 4 10mm nuts that hold it in place, remove them all and store safely.
From under the vehicle:
Remove your exhaust heat sheild, there should be around 4 or 5 securing clips/they are like giant nuts but flat, use small grips to turn them if they are tight.
Now reach up onto the back of the gearbox and remove the stabiliser bar from the gearbox holding the gearlinkages in place.
Now use tipex / paint to mark the gearbox selector shaft against the gearlinkages shaft so you can realign them when putting it all back together.
Undo/loosen the 12mm? 13mm? nut holding the gearlinkage securing clamp, it should become loose enough to just pull the linkage side of things off the gearbox (tug it).

Step16.
Now go on a bolt hunt looking for all the 13mm engine -> gearbox bolts you can find. Remove them all, seeing as your gearbox is SECURELY jacked it shouldn't be a problem.
There are around 5 bolts from the engine into the gearbox. And roughly around 4-5 bolts going from the gearbox side into the engine.

need image.